analysis of Civil War fashion in pictures


VERY enlightening as well as entertaining.  It's packed with pictures.  This lady took a huge sample of Civil War era photos, and categorized "who wore what" by age and economic status.  Some results are not at all what you'd think. She points out that most pictures are selected to illustrate a certain point, and few "ordinary" pictures are published.  She focuses on ordinary and average instead, because that's what we usually want to go for in our impressions. 

My biggest surprise was the white collars, which I never really noticed, but sure enough the vast majority of ladies wore them with their dresses back at that time. 

Miscellanea for today

So I'm not a thread expert yet! On the way to pick up the Pfaff I stopped at a little thrift shop and found some old thread on those charming wooden spools (the lady told me most people wanted those for the spools, for making crafts)
I like old stuff! This looked like nice thread, Necchi brand made in Italy back in the day. Everything was half off, so I got all this for $6.50!



Went to Pfaff store to pick up the (I want to say "baby", but let's not be that silly) and told the guy about the thread I'd just bought and he said... "Sewing thread has a shelf life, you know! Old thread gets brittle and breaks easily!"
Argh. I think he's into raining on my parade!
And he's right, that old thread does break easily. Pity. Well I have a whole pile of nice wooden spools now...
I was going to buy quite a bit of their thread, (had already compared on internet, and the Pfaff store was actually cheapest!) but they were still out of basic black and white. I got a spool of very light grey, one of dark brown, and one rose pink. Close enough to "basics" for now.



Came home and found my daughters have been dipping strawberries in chocolate, and here's some in the freezer waiting for me.



At the collage-making class there was a big tin of neat old buttons that we could use. I spotted these and just had to ask for them! Not for a collage, just because they were too cool not to take home. Check out the fasces!  It's a "Fascist button", how could I not want that!   Hehe, not really, read about it
And I love ladybug jewelry even though I don't own any! I had these darling red ladybug earrings that my daughters said they didn't want, and I always wore them until one day they took them back again :-(



Finished another potholder to match the others, made on the Singer!



Was my wallpaper for a while. I like the authenticity of wildflowers, and the reality of some withered ones in back. Reminds me of some old masters paintings, remember the ones I mean? Some of the most beautiful still lives of flowers and fruit have dead flowers and rotten fruit in the picture, because that's how it really is...

Now THAT's exciting!!

Pfaff and fabric

They just called to say my Pfaff is done. It was very dry and needed lubrication badly, that's why it was making the noise and odd smell. I asked what he would guess the history was. I had rather wondered if I was the first person to sew on it... that was my impression because after sewing a while, I noticed lint in places there hadn't been lint before. He said that made sense, because he found it very dry and dirty in an unusual way, as if it had been stored for a long time in a dusty place. Sewing machines that were being used regularly didn't look like that inside.
I think I can pick it up today! I'm going to buy some of the thread, too. Just a couple spools of white for now... I'll have to use up that "junk" Coats and Clarks thread in the other machine, I guess!

Look at the cool $1/yd fabric I just found on the discount table. That's prettier than cheap fabric normally is! And it came out of the dryer beautifully smooth and ready to go. There was a little more than five yards of each!

My poor Pfaff, and the rest of my stable

The other morning I started sewing as usual, only it made a faint squealing noise every time it started. I was worried about that, and my daughter came in the room and wanted to know "what's that strange smell?" and decided it was coming from the machine. Wha...??
My beautiful Pfaff!!
I hadn't had it serviced when I got it because I couldn't afford the $80, but I could do $80 now, and just hope it's not something else going haywire in there! I hauled it over to the Pfaff store.
And how very HOT I felt carrying my Pfaff into the Pfaff store!!
The lady asked when it was serviced last, and I told her the story. She asked if family had given it to me? Surely not a stranger? And I said a stranger had. She said that was interesting because she was trying to reconcile herself to giving a Pfaff away, a very nice high-end machine that a lady who was going into a nursing home had wanted to donate to someone who would appreciate it. This lady (the one who ran the shop) had immediately thought of a mother of five kids who currently sewed her kids' clothes on an old Kenmore that only did zigzag. I said, "I have five kids too!" and she felt that was definitely a significant coincidence. Her husband came to look at my machine and she told him about it. So I think some lucky mother of five is about to get a really nice machine partly because of me :-)
Anyway, back to me. The man started looking at my machine. He wanted to know if that was really a Singer needle in there? I said I thought my daughter had done that (it's possible it was my daughter, it's also possible it was me) and he said sternly that we must not use Singer needles in a Pfaff, it'll wear away the something something, and ruin the threader, too! Yikes. Then he asked if I wasn't really using Coats and Clarks thread in this machine?? And I had to admit sheepishly that that was the case. No, no, they said, Coats and Clarks is made in Mexico and it's junk! The thickness varies, and it has little knots and snags, and it'll ruin the tension. I simply MUST buy the quality German thread from them! They said it'll be cheaper in the long run, because I'll be getting it serviced less often.
(Actually it's cheaper right now, or at least not any more expensive, because the nice thread is $7 a spool, but there's 1000 yards on a spool... C&C is only 300 yards!)
Then he asked me if that was me who had written all over it! Yes, that was me. I always use permanent marker to make a note about which way the bobbin goes in, so I don't forget and do it backwards. I said, "Don't tell me that can hurt it somehow!"
He said, "Well, you never know, this is a German machine, maybe it doesn't want you writing all over it in English!"
Hahaha, yes he was teasing that time!
They said they hoped I didn't mind.
I don't mind.
I can come pick it up in a couple weeks. So it's back to my old machine for a while. Here we are:



I bought this machine when I was first married and didn't know better. Visible on left, the famous rubber bands. It didn't have a foot pressure adjustment, and the foot was pressing so hard it was basically impossible to sew with. For a long time I thought I was doing something wrong! I resorted to holding the material in front and back and pulling to keep the layers feeding evenly. One day I ripped out the spring and strung rubber bands in there instead. Now it doesn't press down very hard at all, and I've still got to use my hands on both sides, but too little pressure's a lot easier to deal with than too much! The rubber bands break from time to time, and I replace them.
It's still a huge improvement over sewing by hand!
I have two other machines. A good friend gave me a lovely Singer made in the Fifties-- "Fifties" gets capitalized, don't you think? The Fifties must've been a great time, to hear everybody talk about it. It was after the war, and everybody's rich and happy and wearing huge skirts, and having lots of babies. And that Fifties Singer was a wonderful machine, a pleasure to sew with, but the motor burned out with smoke and everything. It happened when I had zero money, so I just set it aside and went back to the old machine. I also have a White that I paid $25 for, and it's kind of okay... it's decent, sorta. It's so clunky! It's very noisy, and I don't know what's wrong with the feed dogs, they just kind of go all astray. It works great on blue jeans, big heavy jobs and such, but it ruins anything more delicate.
I have a certain affection for my rubber-band machine. Any time you invest something of yourself it's hard to hate it later!
And, you'll notice, my rubberband Singer has an external belt? I hooked it up to my treadle base and it works dandy. When the power goes off and the computer goes dark, I can sew :-)







I just made that with it.
Check out the top right where it skipped three stitches in a row, and the lower left, alternating long and short! I think I'll do more ordinary sewing in the meantime and let the next potholder wait until the Pfaff comes back.

We Were There! At the Battle of Fort Steilacoom

Victoria sewed her own 1860s dress! 
She put something together in a hurry for Karen too, and I whipped up quickie jackets for the boys. Given that I didn't have a pattern or any time, I think they came out pretty well. 

I had the most fun making those flags!  Adobe Illustrator came in handy for the stars and the placement. I don't know if I got them correct, but at least evenly spaced in a circle, and that’s okay for now :-) 

The boys' caps came from the sutler.  

I was pretty happy that the only grey fabric I happened to have lying around ended up so closely matching the hats for sale at the event! 

And Vicky found some pretty headgear. 





It's a Civil War battle complete with guns, and it was loud! 

Pretty as a picture! 

Testing Spiral 2 again

Made one up with red snowflakes fabric... I was mainly testing Spiral 2 with perfect circles instead of that odd shape I hand-drew at first. This is an inside-out view. From the right side you can't see the seams and it looks like any other skirt!